Astrid Andersen caters to the new peacock. He may not be clad in three piece tailoring or brandishing an umbrella or pocket square, but he’s a show-off through and through. Andersen is seated firmly within the sportswear pack - those who champion casual, comfortable silhouettes and promote the tracksuit as the new suit. Commentators can confuse this focus with a desire to play down menswear, or a focus on ease rather than craft and workmanship. But Andersen has no interest in basics. Nonchalance, sure. But simplicity, no. Her men may favour a more relaxed silhouette, but they like the performative aspect of clothing - they like to make a statement. That’s why she’s pushing with flamboyant lace tracksuits. Or elaborate furs. It’s telling then, that for Autumn/Winter 2017, she was looking at ‘periods of masculine opulence.’ Her show notes went one step further in showing their support for the ‘dress-up’ pack with the comment, ‘Over recent centuries this gradual decline in abundance and lavishness within men’s fashion inspired Astrid to revisit this commitment to exploration, elaboration and exaggeration.’ Take out the name Astrid and that reads like something you’d see handed out at a Savile Row show. But Andersen is all about uniting opulence and modernity - by looking back in time she’s not supporting tradition, but rather borrowing elements of classic costume. You saw that in the rich plum-heavy palette. Or in the use of quills and leopard for prints. There was something tribal about the way her boys wore matching feather earrings, that hung down straight and sharp to the clavicle - the Lost Boys of 2017. But there was nothing juvenile about them, on second glance. Those heavy furs and inky palettes spoke of strength and power. This was a regal collection - ideal, given that Andersen’s army of much-snapped rap supporters are today’s take on royalty.
Andersen is all about uniting opulence and modernity - by looking back in time she’s not supporting tradition, but rather borrowing elements of classic costume. You saw that in the rich plum-heavy palette. Or in the use of quills and leopard for prints.