There’s many a famous name to come from the family of Comme des Garçons. Junya Watanabe, Noir Nei Kinomiya and the Sacai duo to name a few. You might know Fumito Ganryu from that family umbrella, or from his brand Ganryu that shuttered in 2017. But now, after his show at Pitti Uomo, all will know him from his exciting and newly launched eponymous label which reworks streetwear codes.
This collection was seemingly all about water; the use of waterproof neoprene throughout, the primary colours, shorts that double as swimsuits, the relaxing running water noise remix and the literal use of the word 'water’ as slogans on jumpers. On seeing so much neoprene, one initially thought this was an ode to sportswear, scuba diving and practicality - neoprene is hardy and commonly used in sport, and shapes were functional. But as blue lights shone, rubber straps and bands dangled from jacket, and white hooded coats and pleated wide leg trousers emerged, a slightly eerie laboratory feel started to stew.
Jackets and trouser were tied around waist, slung over shoulder, mimicking layers and creating structural silhouettes - treating secondary items as if accessories, a strong styling manoeuvre and one that felt reflective of the mood and materials at play. Likewise, slides and sandals, each held with rubber cords and cables, were emblematic of Ganryu’s mood and had most flashing their cameras in excitement.
One felt that each of these items could mutate into something unknown, into something more formal, or more sporty, a pair of trousers becoming a jacket or a belt. The material choice, the execution, the styling; this was an enticing first show for Ganryu.