When Haider Ackermann's wondrous draping and eye for colour caught the fashion world's attention a few years ago, talk soon turned - as it usually does - to what the Colombian designer would possibly do next. Karl Lagerfeld even suggested the idea five years ago that he could be his replacement although he retracted that not long after. Instead, Ackermann has remained, at times singularly so, focused on doing 'his thing' and his alone, developing his label and quietly exploring what else it stands for. The shrunken and lurex-injected little tweed jackets and slim trousers and flippy pleated leather skirts and black leather trouser combos he showed this morning made me think again how right Lagerfeld was that first time.
Those jackets, sleeves pushed up Haider-style were worn over contrasting chequerboard blouses and polka dot silk scarves that at times were wrapped tightly around the neck, and tapered black trousers. The clash of patterns - the tweed over the checks and animal print - felt like new territory for Ackermann, a natural continuation of his brilliant skill at juxtaposing colours. There was something so romantic about the white stitching that hacked across the lapels of a blazer or outlined a silk tunic or seemed to hold the ruffles of a white blouse together - these were clothes to treasure and keep but also to live in so that some restitching might be needed now and then. The red velvet and gold brocade suit towards the end particularly stood out. A real heirloom of a thing.